The Origins of Irish Whiskey (Part 2): From Moonshine to Monopoly (1600–1700)
Ireland in Turmoil, Whiskey in Transition
The 17th century in Ireland was a time of profound upheaval: rebellion, conquest, plantation, and religious division left scars across the landscape. But amid this political and cultural chaos, the practice of distilling quietly evolved — becoming more widespread, more commercial, and increasingly regulated.
By now, uisce beatha had moved well beyond the monasteries and clans. It was being distilled in homes, on farms, and in back lanes across the country. But not everyone approved.
Enter the Crown: Tax, Control, and “Parliamentary Whiskey”
As the British Crown tightened its grip on Ireland, it sought to regulate distillation — not out of concern for quality, but for tax revenue. In 1661, King Charles II introduced the first official excise duties on spirits in Ireland. This marked the birth of what later became known as "Parliamentary whiskey" — legally sanctioned and taxed spirits, produced by licensed distillers.
For the first time, a distinction emerged between legal whiskey and poteen (illicit, untaxed spirits often made in the hills or countryside). Many Irish distillers resisted the idea of licensing. After all, distilling had long been a communal craft — not a commodity for regulation.
But the British state persisted. Over time, licensed distilleries began to grow, and whiskey — at least in some places — became more professionalized, consistent, and profitable.
Bushmills: Ireland’s First Licensed Distillery
Amid this wave of regulation, one distillery stepped forward and embraced legitimacy — and in doing so, made history.
In 1608, King James I granted a license to Sir Thomas Phillips to distill whiskey in the region of Bushmills, County Antrim. Though the current Old Bushmills Distillery wasn’t officially built until 1784, the 1608 license forms the foundation of the brand’s proud claim to be the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world.
Bushmills was ideally located: near freshwater streams, coastal trade routes, and grain-growing lands. It also benefited from the Ulster Plantation, which brought Protestant settlers and English support. Unlike many rural distillers, Bushmills embraced Parliament’s regulation — and laid the groundwork for Ireland’s commercial whiskey industry.
From Craft to Commerce: A Changing Spirit
The 17th century saw distillation begin its slow transformation from local tradition to industrial enterprise.
- Copper stills became larger and more refined.
- Cask maturation began to be more common, although ageing for flavour was still inconsistent.
- Whiskey moved into the urban economy, particularly in port cities like Dublin, Cork, and Belfast.
But not everyone joined the licensed distilling class. In fact, most rural producers operated outside the law, continuing to make poteen (meaning “little pot”) in secret stills. The divide between Parliamentary whiskey and poitín would continue to define Irish distillation for centuries.
The First Whiskey Writers
As whiskey became more prominent, it began appearing in the written record beyond tax ledgers. English and European travellers visiting Ireland frequently commented on the locals’ fondness for strong spirits — sometimes with admiration, sometimes with disdain.
One 17th-century English writer described Irish whiskey as “hot upon the tongue and strong in the stomach,” which likely wasn’t meant as a compliment. Still, it demonstrates how widely consumed — and culturally embedded — the drink had become.
Conclusion: Ireland’s Spirit Learns to Wear a Collar
The 1600s were a century of contradiction for Irish whiskey: growth and repression, regulation and rebellion, legal distillers and mountain outlaws. What began as a wild spirit was now being tamed — but not without resistance.
The rise of Parliamentary whiskey and the licensing of Bushmills laid the foundations for a modern industry. But the rebellious soul of Irish distilling — rooted in freedom, craft, and community — refused to be bottled.
